How is a shirt made at the Atelier de Camisa?
Men shirts are one of most complex garments make.
A high quality men's shirt requires special attention to:
- the choice of materials;
- the cut and manufacturing of its various components.
Approximately 1.60 m of poplin or flannel fabric. The quality of the fabric used is crucial to the quality of the final product.
All shirts made at the Atelier de Camisa use natural fiber fabrics, usually 100% cotton.
Fabrics containing man-made fibers are excluded, with one exception: a line of fabrics for easy washing and ironing (with polyester), particularly aimed at those who travel frequently.
Interlinings for strengthening the collar and cuffs
A good interlining should be consistent and flexible, having applied a high quality layer of adhesive pigment evenly distributed on one side. Only under these conditions, coupled with a fusing temperature adjusted to the nature of the tissue (approx. 150 C), it is possible to ensure a uniform adherence to the interlining tissue. And just this way is guaranteed the stability of the collar and cuffs after repeated washings, keeping them, all the time, with the desirable comfort.
The making of a quality shirt requires the use of the appropriate lines to the characteristics of the tissue. The line should have an exterior filament of cotton and an inside wire of continuous polyester for better resistance to washing. It must have the correct thickness and color as close as possible to the background colour of the fabric.
Atelier de Camisa only uses shirt interlinings and lines with these characteristics.
There are two kinds of buttons:
- Mother of pearl, taken from part of pearly shells of some mollusks, particularly oysters.
- Plastic (mass), in some cases an excellent pearl imitation.
Atelier de Camisa uses top quality mass buttons on all shirts as standard. You can choose mother of pearl buttons by selecting it in the shirt "Personalisation" option during ordering.
What are stages of producing a shirt?
The various components of the shirt (collar, cuffs, sleeves, fronts and backs) are first drawn on paper or suitable paperboard ( cut plan )
In mass production multiple sheets of fabric are overlapped on a table of appropriate size, placing the cutting plan on the top sheet and, using a mechanical saw, cutting up simultaneously all the extended sheets.
Shirts made to measure are different: only the sheets of fabric for a single client are extended on the table for manual cutting with scissors . This practice allows you to adjust the measurements of each component of the shirt to the stature of each client.
This operation applies the previously cut interlining to the fabric that is used later in the making the collar and cuffs. This process uses of a press set at a temperature of about 150 º C.
This operation has three phases:
Preparation: is the manufacture of collars and cuffs of his shirt. It is at this stage that, among other small operations, the pocket is sewed in, the protective flap is tailored and the labels are applied.
Assembly: after the preparation, it is this stage that all the individual components of the shirt are bound through a variety of sewing operations.
Finishing: end stage of manufacture. Buttonholes are prepared, buttons applied and a review is carried out to monitor all components of the shirt. Following these steps, the shirt is ready to be starched and ironed, folded and packaged.
The weaving is the operation that performs the orthogonal intersection of two systems of yarn - warp and weft - in order to produce a tissue and held in machines called by looms or, more modernly, for weaving machines. For the formation of a tissue will be necessary to make the crossing of the warp with the weft yarns. To do so, and since the web is first prepared with all the wires and the length needed to produce the desired amount of tissue, there is only one solution to realize their crossing of the two systems of wires: the division of the warp in two different planes, to create the possibility of inserting a weft yarn between them. The diagram shown below shows all components of a loom needed to produce a fabric.
In it we can see that all the warp (2) necessary for the construction of a fabric will be pre-prepared and draped in the national web (1).
Each warp yarn is then fed into a ring of Heald (4) that is placed on a support which serves to divide the warp in two planes, which are called by heald frames (3).
The space thus created between the two sheets of warp is usually known for CALA.
To make the opening shut and the insertion of the plot, so as to achieve the desired sketch, the show looms are equipped with systems that operate in the movement of senior staff in tems of the loom, where they are placed on the warp in a certain order.
After opening the shut, carried out the insertion of a weft yarn (6) inside.
After insertion of the weft, the warp may or may not be moved to an intermediate position in order to make up the placement of the weft inserted into the tissue (7).
This introduction of the weft thread in the fabric is called by beating the plot and is run by the comb of the loom (5). After completion of the beating of the weft, the warp make forming a new silent, repeating the cycle, ie all the steps described above. The fabric as it will be produced will be wrapped in an element normally located in front of the loom and named by body tissue. (8)